S02E05 - Helvete/Neseblod

Descending into the Darkness – My Journey into Oslo’s Black Metal Scene

Oslo is known for its sleek Scandinavian design, stunning fjords, and cozy cafés. But beneath its picturesque surface lies something far grittier—a history stained by black metal, crime, and the kind of chaos that shaped a genre.

During my latest visit to Norway’s capital, I set out to explore Neseblod, a record shop and museum that holds the soul (or perhaps the damned spirit) of the country’s extreme metal movement. What I found was a place steeped in legend, controversy, and an unsettling yet magnetic energy.

A City That Feels Like a Song

Before stepping into the shadows, I soaked in Oslo’s unique winter ambiance. There’s something beautifully paradoxical about the city—it’s dark yet cozy, cold yet inviting. The snowfall made everything look cinematic, and as I walked through the streets, I felt like I was inside a black metal album cover.

I visited a traditional Norwegian stave church, its dark wooden structure standing in stark contrast to the white surroundings. It was breathtaking, but I soon realized its connection to today’s story—one of these churches had been burned to the ground by infamous black metal musician Varg Vikernes in the 90s. The weight of history was already pressing in.

Entering Neseblod: The Gate to the Abyss

Nestled between unsuspecting coffee shops, Neseblod looks like any other record store—until you step inside. Posters of corpse-painted musicians, walls filled with rare vinyl, and an entire section dedicated to Mayhem, Burzum, and other controversial bands set the tone. The store is part shop, part museum, and part crypt.

My personal highlight? The basement.

Descending into this dimly lit space felt like entering another realm. The air was thick with history, the walls lined with burnt remnants from a 2024 fire, and in one eerie corner stood a black throne. A literal black metal throne.

And yes, I sat in it.

The Murder, the Suicide, and the Legend

Of course, Neseblod isn’t just about the music—it’s about the infamous history behind it. Mayhem’s story is one of the most disturbing in rock history. Vocalist Dead, obsessed with death, committed suicide in a horrific manner, leaving behind a note that read: “Excuse all the blood.” Instead of calling for help, Mayhem’s guitarist Euronymous took pictures of the body, later using one as an album cover.

Varg Vikernes, a figure both reviled and mythologized, took things even further. First, he burned down churches. Then, he murdered Euronymous in what became one of Norway’s most notorious criminal cases. The black metal scene had gone from music to madness.

Why You Should Visit

You don’t have to be a black metal fan to appreciate the weight of Neseblod. Much like visiting New Orleans for jazz or Liverpool for The Beatles, coming here lets you stand where history—no matter how dark—was made.

For those who love music, mystery, or the macabre, this is a must-visit. Just be prepared: what you find might be hilariously disturbing.